One Week in Genoa, Italy: A Family's Honest Guide to Italy's Hidden Maritime Gem
Picture this: you're standing on a train platform in the sweltering Italian heat, surrounded by luggage and three increasingly cranky children, wondering if you've made a terrible mistake. That was us arriving in Genoa after a long journey from the French Riviera. Yet somehow, this magnificent maritime city became one of our most unexpectedly delightful discoveries in our first month of full-time travel.
Genoa isn't trying to impress anyone. It's not polished like Florence or romantic like Venice. It's a working port city that happens to be drop-dead gorgeous, where Christopher Columbus was born, and where the best focaccia in the world is still made the same way it was 500 years ago. For families seeking authentic Italy without the tourist circus, this UNESCO World Heritage city delivers something truly special.
Getting to Genoa from the French Riviera
Our journey to Genoa began with what should have been a simple train ride from Antibes. Four hours, two countries, and one very memorable lesson about traveling with young children across international borders.
The route itself is stunning. The train hugs the Mediterranean coastline from Nice to the Italian border, offering glimpses of turquoise water and dramatic cliffs that make you forget about sticky fingers and constant bathroom requests. Italian regional trains in June feel like mobile saunas, and the air conditioning is more of a gentle suggestion than actual climate control.
The Route:
- Antibes to Nice-Ville: 30 minutes of coastal beauty
- Nice-Ville to Ventimiglia: 1 hour crossing into Italy
- Ventimiglia to Genova Piazza Principe: 2 hours through Italian Riviera towns
- Total travel time: 4 hours that felt like 8
When we finally stumbled off that train, hot, tired, and slightly shell-shocked, Genoa's magnificent Piazza Principe station felt like salvation. The challenge? Our apartment was a seven-minute walk on cobblestones with all our worldly possessions, and naturally, Lily announced an urgent bathroom emergency while Harper chose that exact moment for a complete meltdown.
Welcome to Genoa, family style.
Where We Stayed in Genoa's Historic Center
Sometimes the universe has a sense of humor. Our accommodation was called "Happy Family Apartments," which felt either perfectly appropriate or deeply ironic, depending on the moment. Located just off Piazza Banchi in the heart of the historic center, this apartment became our base for exploring one of Italy's most underrated cities.
The apartment itself was a revelation. Real Italian character with high ceilings, traditional tile floors, and a working elevator that saved our sanity after long days of exploration. But the crown jewel was the bay window seat overlooking the narrow medieval street below. This little nook, with its cushioned bench and perfect reading light, represented everything romantic about Italian living.
The girls were immediately enchanted by this window perch. They'd curl up there with books, watching the daily theater of Genovese life unfold below: vendors pushing carts over cobblestones, neighbors calling to each other from opposite windows, the elderly men who gathered each morning for animated discussions that seemed to solve the world's problems. I could imagine that a few years from now, they'd never want to leave that window seat with a good book and the endless entertainment of Italian street life.
The apartment came complete with toys and books left by previous families, fish decorations on the walls that delighted the girls, and air conditioning that actually worked. But here's where travel gets real: the WiFi died on our second night and stayed dead for most of our stay. For a family documenting their journey and trying to upload videos, this was catastrophic.
Essential Travel Tip: Always have backup internet. We now travel with Holafly eSIM. Use code ADAMANDLINDS to save 5% for reliable data wherever we go.
Best Focaccia in Italy (Yes, Really)
If you've never had real focaccia in its birthplace, you haven't lived. This isn't the dry, flavorless bread masquerading as focaccia in supermarkets. This is alchemy: flour, water, olive oil, and centuries of perfected technique creating something that transcends simple bread.
Our focaccia education began accidentally. We were wandering the narrow streets of the historic center, following our noses and the queue of locals that seemed to snake around every corner from a small bakery. When Italians line up for food, you line up too. No questions asked.
The bakery was tiny, steamy, and filled with the kind of controlled chaos that only comes from making something perfectly, repeatedly, for generations. The focaccia emerged from massive ovens on wooden paddles, golden and glistening with olive oil, crackling as it cooled.
This tastes better than the memory of what we think Pizza Hut used to taste like when we were kids, but it's actually better than that.
The Varieties That Changed Our Lives:
- Focaccia col formaggio: A revelation of thin layers with molten cheese inside
- Focaccia with onions: Sweet, caramelized perfection without overpowering bite
- Plain focaccia: Simplicity elevated to art form
Each bite was crispy on the bottom, soft and airy inside, with olive oil that soaked into the bread without making it greasy. The girls devoured it despite their usual bread skepticism. Even Harper, our pickiest eater, kept reaching for more while declaring it "really good bread, Daddy."
Finding great focaccia became our daily mission. We'd venture out each morning, following different routes through the historic center, always ending up at a bakery where locals chatted while waiting for their daily bread. These moments, standing in line with Genovese families, trying to order in broken Italian while our girls pointed excitedly at different varieties, felt like the real Italy we'd come to find.
Aquarium of Genova and Whale Watching
The Aquarium of Genova sits in the old port like a monument to the sea, and walking through its doors felt like entering another world. This isn't just any aquarium; it's the second-largest in Europe, housed in a building designed by Renzo Piano that seems to float above the harbor.
But here's what surprised me: it wasn't just impressive, it was genuinely magical. The girls pressed their faces against massive tanks, watching sharks glide through artificial reefs while dolphins played in spaces so large you could fit a small airplane inside. Harper, all of two years old, stood transfixed by jellyfish pulsing like alien dancers in cylindrical tanks.
We almost didn't get in. I'd booked tickets online but somehow managed to print vouchers instead of actual tickets. The staff looked at us like we'd presented grocery receipts and demanded real tickets. Lindsay worked her magic with customer service and sorted everything out. If you'd rather avoid these kinds of mix-ups entirely, Lindsay can handle all your bookings at [email protected].
The aquarium sprawls across multiple floors and themed areas. We spent four hours exploring, and the girls never got bored. The touch pools let them feel starfish and sea anemones, while the shark tunnel provided Instagram-worthy moments of tiny humans dwarfed by prehistoric predators.
Must-See Exhibits:
- Dolphin habitats: Massive spaces where families of dolphins play and interact
- Shark tunnel: Walking through a transparent tube surrounded by circling sharks
- Tropical forest section: Humid, jungle-like environment with exotic birds and reptiles
- Penguin habitat: Climate-controlled Antarctic environment with playful residents
Whale Watching in the Ligurian Sea
Four hours on a boat with three young children sounds like a recipe for disaster. Instead, it became one of our most memorable family experiences in Italy. The Ligurian Sea between France, Monaco, and Italy is a whale superhighway, and we were about to discover why.
The boat departed from the same harbor where Christopher Columbus grew up before eventually sailing from Spain to the New World. As we motored away from Genoa's colorful buildings, the city receded into a postcard-perfect backdrop of medieval towers and modern cranes, old and new Italy layered like geological strata.
Twenty minutes into our journey, someone shouted "Dolphins!" and the entire boat rushed to the starboard side. What followed was pure magic: a pod of dolphins racing alongside our bow, leaping and playing in our wake like they were putting on a show just for us. The girls squealed with delight, their faces pressed against the railings as these wild creatures performed aquatic ballet just meters away.
But the dolphins were just the opening act. An hour later, the guide's excited Italian chatter preceded the appearance of something extraordinary: sperm whales. These magnificent creatures, some over 50 feet long, surfaced near our boat with the casual grace of giants. Watching a whale breach the surface while your children gasp in wonder is the kind of moment that justifies every difficult aspect of family travel.
Whale Watching Essentials:
- Best timing: Morning departures typically have calmer seas
- Duration: Full four hours, no shortcuts
- What to pack: Sunscreen, motion sickness remedies, lots of water
- Expectations: Wildlife sightings aren't guaranteed, but guides know where to look
The journey back to port felt different. The girls were exhausted but exhilarated, full of stories about "the big whales" and "the jumping dolphins." As Genoa's skyline grew larger on the horizon, I realized we'd just experienced something that would live in their memories forever.
Exploring Genoa's Historic Center
Walking through Genoa's historic center is like navigating a medieval time machine. The narrow caruggi (alleyways) twist and climb between buildings so old they predate the discovery of America. Christopher Columbus was born here, and you can visit his supposed childhood home, though whether it's actually where he lived is debatable enough for tourist photos.
What's more impressive than Columbus's questionable birthplace is the sheer density of history packed into these ancient streets. Every building has a story, every piazza has witnessed centuries of human drama, and every corner reveals another architectural marvel that would be a major attraction anywhere else but here just blends into the magnificent urban fabric.
Piazza de Ferrari serves as the beating heart of modern Genoa, anchored by a magnificent bronze fountain that seems to dance in the Mediterranean light. We visited this square multiple times during our stay, including a particularly poignant moment when we wore special t-shirts in support of Lindsay's aunt, who was having cancer surgery back home in America that same day.
Standing in that historic piazza, wearing homemade shirts that said "Flock You Cancer," taking photos to send across the ocean to show love and support, reminded me that travel isn't just about seeing new places. It's about carrying the people you love with you, even when they're thousands of miles away.
The covered shopping streets, called portici, provide blessed relief from the summer heat while offering glimpses into daily Genovese life. These vaulted passages date back centuries and create a climate-controlled shopping experience that modern malls can only dream of replicating.
We spent hours wandering these covered streets, hunting for everything from laundry detergent to instant cameras for the girls. These mundane errands became cultural expeditions, teaching us Italian words for household items while giving us authentic interactions with locals.
Family Activities in Genoa
The Pirate Ship Experience
Sometimes you do things because they're there, not because they're good. The pirate ship docked in Porto Antico falls squarely into this category. This genuine movie prop from Roman Polanski's 1986 film "Pirates" looked impressive from the dock but proved less magical up close.
The ship itself is undeniably cool: authentic-looking rigging, weathered wood, and enough nautical atmosphere to spark any child's imagination. The problem? It's basically a movie set, which means lots of impressive facades hiding modern construction, combined with spaces clearly designed for cameras rather than human comfort.
The Numbers:
- Cost: €20 per person (€100 for our family)
- Duration: About 30 minutes of exploration
- Best part: Photo opportunities and sparking kids' imaginations
- Verdict: Photos from the dock might be sufficient
But here's the thing about travel with kids: sometimes the "tourist traps" create the best memories. The girls loved climbing around the ship, pretending to be pirates, and dramatically walking the plank. Harper, in particular, was enchanted by the whole experience, her two-year-old imagination transforming movie props into genuine pirate adventure.
Tourist Train Tour
The tourist train that winds through Genoa's historic center promised a comfortable way to see the city's highlights without exhausting little legs. The 45-minute tour covered major sights and provided a good overview of the city's geography, but the experience was more endurance test than pure enjoyment.
What Worked:
- Good overview of city layout and major attractions
- Commentary available in multiple languages
- Kids enjoyed the novelty of riding through city streets
- Photo opportunities at various stops
What to Expect:
- Cramped seating for adults
- Bumpy ride on cobblestone streets
- Multilingual announcements throughout
- €15 per person cost
Day Trip to Milan
Armed with confidence and Eurail passes, we decided to tackle Milan as a day trip from Genoa. The train journey itself was magnificent: fast, comfortable, and air-conditioned relief from the Italian summer heat. The high-speed service whisked us from Genoa to Milan in just over two hours, depositing us in the heart of Italy's fashion capital.
Milan in June is brutally hot. The temperature soared to 33°C (91°F), turning our planned exploration into a strategic mission between air-conditioned spaces. The magnificent Duomo cathedral was stunning, and we managed to explore the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade.
We'd planned to revisit a restaurant from our honeymoon ten years earlier, a romantic spot where Lindsay and I had spent magical evenings during our first trip to Italy. Of course, it was closed for renovations. The universe has a sense of humor about nostalgic travel plans.
Milan Day Trip Tips:
- High-speed trains make it very doable from Genoa
- Summer weather requires strategic planning around heat
- Verify restaurant hours in advance
- Consider staying overnight to fully explore
- The Duomo and Galleria are absolutely worth seeing
What We Managed:
- The magnificent Duomo (exterior and surrounding area)
- Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade
- Historic city center exploration
- Successful train travel with three kids
The journey back to Genoa felt satisfying. We'd successfully navigated a major Italian city with three young children, seen some incredible architecture, and learned valuable lessons about travel pacing in summer heat.
Daily Life in Genoa with Kids
One unexpected aspect of extended travel is how quickly extraordinary places become ordinary. After a few days in Genoa, searching for the neighborhood dumpster or hunting for laundry detergent pods felt as mundane as they would at home, just with the added challenge of language barriers and different systems.
The Grocery Adventure: European supermarkets stock different products than American stores, turning simple shopping trips into cultural expeditions. We spent 20 minutes in the laundry aisle trying to decode Italian detergent options, and our quest for Ziploc bags proved entirely unsuccessful.
The Communication Dance: Most interactions required gesture-heavy broken Italian mixed with hopeful English. Surprisingly, this worked better than expected, especially when dealing with friendly shop owners who appreciated our attempts at their language.
Trash and Recycling: Italian cities take recycling seriously, which sounds environmentally responsible until you're standing outside locked dumpster areas with bags of garbage. We learned to follow locals and slip in behind them when they accessed communal disposal areas.
These daily challenges became part of the adventure. Each successful navigation of Italian bureaucracy or successful grocery run felt like a small victory, building our confidence for future destinations and teaching the girls that adaptation is just part of life.
Genoa Food Scene Beyond Focaccia
While focaccia dominated our culinary experience, Genoa offered plenty of other gastronomic adventures, some more successful than others.
Fresh Fish Restaurants: We found a traditional restaurant that served fresh catch of the day, which arrived as an entire fish, head and eyeballs included, staring from my plate. The girls handled this better than expected, treating it as educational theater rather than culinary horror show.
It wasn't the best thing I've ever had in my life. It wasn't the worst thing I've ever had in my life either. It was good.
Gelato Success Stories: Italian gelato shops are abundant and uniformly excellent. This became our daily afternoon ritual: finding a new gelateria, letting the girls point at whatever looked appealing, and enjoying frozen relief from the summer heat.
Dining with Children: Italian restaurants aren't particularly child-friendly in terms of equipment. Everything arrives in actual glass, creating constant vigilance against spills and breakage. However, Italian culture genuinely welcomes families, and staff were universally patient with our chaos.
What We Learned About Traveling to Genoa
Internet Backup: Never rely solely on accommodation WiFi for work or communication needs. Holafly eSIM now travels with us everywhere as insurance against connectivity disasters.
Weather Preparation: June in northern Italy can be surprisingly hot. Pack more summer clothes than you think you'll need, and always have a backup plan for air-conditioned activities.
Shopping Strategy: Order specialty items online rather than hunting through local stores. The hours we spent searching for specific instant camera colors could have been better used exploring.
Restaurant Planning: Verify hours and availability for special dining experiences, especially if they carry sentimental significance.
Transportation: Eurail passes make Italian train travel incredibly convenient and cost-effective.
Why Families Should Visit Genoa
After a week of medieval streets, maritime adventures, focaccia obsessions, and the usual chaos of family travel, Genoa earned a permanent place in our hearts. This isn't the Italy of tourist brochures, but it's the Italy of real life: messy, magnificent, and utterly authentic.
Perfect for Families Seeking:
- Authentic Italian experience without overwhelming tourist crowds
- Rich maritime history that captivates children
- Excellent value compared to Rome, Florence, or Venice
- Perfect base for exploring the Italian Riviera
- Incredible food scene beyond tourist restaurants
- Walkable historic center with genuine medieval character
Consider Carefully If You Want:
- Extensive English-language support everywhere
- Polished tourist infrastructure
- Picture-perfect romantic atmosphere
- Beach resort amenities
The Bottom Line: Genoa delivered exactly what we didn't know we needed: a chance to experience Italy as it actually is, rather than as tourism has packaged it. The girls learned that travel isn't always comfortable or easy, but it's always worthwhile. We learned that the best destinations are often the ones you stumble into rather than the ones you plan for months.
Planning Your Genoa Visit
- Optimal Stay Length: 4-7 days allows for proper exploration without rushing
- Best Timing: April-May or September-October for pleasant weather
- Getting There: High-speed trains connect Genoa to major Italian cities
- Activities: Book aquarium and whale watching combo in advance
- Internet: Holafly eSIM provides reliable European data coverage
Ready to plan your Italian adventure? Let Lindsay handle all the details at [email protected] for stress-free family travel planning.
Watch Our Complete Genoa Adventure: Experience all these moments in our Genoa YouTube playlist, where you can see the chaos, wonder, and authentic Italian life alongside our family.
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