Lucca, Italy: Our 10th Anniversary, Harper's 3rd Birthday, and Why We Never Want to Leave

Today marks our 10th wedding anniversary, and I'm sitting in our Airbnb in Lucca, Italy, watching the girls play with the birthday presents our incredible host Anna left for Harper. It's day 46 of our journey - the longest I've ever been away from Indiana - and honestly, I can't believe this is our life now.

We arrived in Lucca 11 days ago after a somewhat chaotic train journey from Genoa (more on that adventure later), and this medieval Tuscan city has completely stolen our hearts. If someone told us we could stay here forever, Lindsay and I would probably say yes without hesitation.

The Journey Here: Train Adventures and Luggage Nightmares

Let me back up to June 19th - Father's Day and our departure from Genoa. We needed to catch two trains: Genoa to Viareggio (1.5 hours), then a quick 17-minute connection to Lucca.

Standing at the ticket counter in Genoa with my limited Italian and hopeful expression, I tried to book our TGV reservations with our Eurail passes. The agent could only book us to Viareggio - we'd have to make the final reservation when we arrived. At first this seemed scary with three kids and all our worldly possessions, but it turned out to be no problem at all. These Italian intercity trains are frequent and spacious, and completely free with our rail pass.

The train ride itself was beautiful. These Italian intercity trains have that old-school European charm - wide doors, upstairs and downstairs seating, and windows perfect for watching the Italian countryside roll by. The girls settled into their entertainment routine while I optimistically thought I might get some video editing done. That lasted about 30 minutes before I gave up and just enjoyed the view.

Then came the Viareggio transfer. We had 20 minutes to get from our arrival platform to platform six for the final leg to Lucca. With our one roller suitcase, two big suitcases, and three tired kids, we were basically a small parade trying to navigate Italian train stations. But we made it without any drama.

The real challenge came when we reached our Lucca apartment. TONS of stairs. Oh my god, I thought I was having a heart attack carrying everything up to our place. Note to future selves: always ask about stairs when booking accommodations.

But when we finally collapsed in our apartment and looked out at this beautiful, small medieval city, we knew we'd found something special.

How to Get to Lucca from Major Italian Cities

For anyone considering a similar trip, here's what we learned about getting to Lucca:

From Major Cities:

Pro Tip: We used our Eurail Global Pass which covered the base fare - we only paid €5 each for TGV reservations.

First Impressions: Anna's Incredible Welcome

Our Airbnb host Anna must have watched our YouTube videos because she left the most thoughtful welcome I've ever experienced. Not only were there presents for each of the girls (Harper got a doll that she immediately claimed as "my dolly"), but Anna also left us wine, beer, water, snacks, and even some basic supplies.

The apartment itself is perfect - right in Piazza San Francesco in the heart of the historic center. Everything is walkable, there's a washing machine (essential after weeks of wearing the same clothes), and despite those killer stairs, the location couldn't be better.

But the real magic happened when we stepped outside and saw the medieval walls surrounding the entire city.

The Walls: A Runner's Paradise and Family Dream

These aren't just any walls - they're perfectly preserved Renaissance fortifications that create a 4.2-kilometer elevated park around the entire historic center. Here's an interesting fact: the walls are exactly one-tenth the length of a marathon, which inspired the Lucca Marathon that takes place in October and starts precisely on these city walls.

As someone trying to get back into running shape, I immediately knew I'd found my new favorite training ground. Back in 2017, I ran 1,000 miles that year - I used to run all the time. I've pretty much stopped to almost nothing since then, but I'd really like to pick it back up. I've never been fast by any means, but I just enjoy a good run.

I've been out on the walls 2-3 times since we arrived. The path is completely car-free, mostly shaded by beautiful trees, and offers incredible views of both the city and the surrounding Tuscan countryside. It's essentially a perfect 5K loop. Running here has given me time to process what we're doing. Somewhere during one of my recent runs, it hit me - really hit me - that we're actually doing this crazy thing. Our three daughters are experiencing the world in a way most kids never will.

You hear people say you get 18 summers with your kids before they grow up. I think that's wrong. You get maybe five or six magical summers when the world still holds wonder, when daddy's still the coolest person they know, when a train ride feels like the greatest adventure ever.

Lily's 6, Cora's 5, Harper's 3. We're right in that sweet spot. We could have waited until they were older, until travel was "easier." But then we'd miss this exact version of them, this precise moment when everything is new and exciting.

But it's not just for runners. The walls are wide enough for families to walk side by side, there are multiple playgrounds accessible from the wall path, and the whole thing feels incredibly safe for kids.

Wall Activities for Families:

Harper's First Road Birthday: June 25th

Harper turned three this past Saturday, making this our very first birthday celebration as full-time travelers. The morning started with present opening in the apartment - we'd bought wrapping paper and decorations during our Pisa day trip at a party supply store called "Balloon Express."

On her actual birthday (the 25th), we rented one of those four-person electric pedal bikes and rode the entire circuit around the walls. Twenty euros for an hour, and it was worth every cent. Get the electric assist though - trust me on this one. Even with the motor, it was a workout, but the girls loved every second of it.

The next day (June 26th), we arranged horseback riding through a local farm just outside Lucca for the ultimate birthday adventure. Each girl had a dedicated guide walking right next to their horse the entire time. They were decked out in full safety gear (helmets and protective vests), which made them look like tiny knights but also meant they were sweating in the Italian heat.

The instructor told me that my horse "likes to eat grass and you'll have to control her," which seemed pretty optimistic since I haven't been on a horse since I think I was Lily's age. But somehow we all managed just fine.

Harper, despite being our youngest and smallest, was a natural. Cora was equally impressive - she's got serious cowgirl potential. The whole experience cost about €30-40 per child for 45 minutes, and seeing their faces light up as they rode through the Tuscan countryside was priceless.

Torre Guinigi: The Tower with Trees on Top

One of Lucca's most unique attractions is Torre Guinigi - a 14th-century tower that has oak trees growing on the roof. The girls were fascinated by this concept, and honestly, so was I.

The climb is 230 steps, which might sound daunting with kids, but it's totally manageable if you take your time. The views from the top are absolutely incredible - you can see the entire city, the walls, the surrounding mountains, and those famous oak trees up close. At €5 for adults (kids under 6 are free), it's a bargain for one of the best views in Tuscany.

Today, for our 10th anniversary, I told Lindsay I was going to get her a diamond ring, but figured she'd rather climb that tower with trees on top and be terrified for our children's lives. (She did, and she was.)

Day Trip to Pisa: Tourist Chaos vs. Lucca Peace

We took the train to Pisa a couple days ago - just 30 minutes away and €3-5 per person. The contrast between the two cities couldn't be more stark.

Pisa is... a lot. The area around the Leaning Tower is absolute chaos - crowds everywhere, tourist traps, and that particular energy that comes with being one of the world's most photographed monuments. The tower itself is impressive (186 feet tall, by the way), but you have to be 8 years old to climb it, so our girls were out of luck.

That said, the cathedral and baptistery are beautiful, and we got some great family photos. We also managed to find that party supply store where we bought Harper's birthday decorations - success! But after a few hours, we were all ready to escape back to the peaceful streets of Lucca.

Food Adventures (And That One Terrible Meal)

We've had some amazing meals in Lucca, but we also experienced what was probably our worst dining experience in Italy. Picture this: €100 for a family meal that was so bad we could barely eat it. When the waitress asked how everything was, Lindsay - ever polite - said "Yes, it was great!"

Lily immediately piped up: "Mommy lied to that girl!"

Out of the mouths of babes. We couldn't stop laughing.

But we've had much better luck at the pizzerias around Piazza dell'Anfiteatro and the restaurants near San Frediano. The girls have developed quite a taste for Italian gelato (shocking, I know), and we've found several excellent gelaterias throughout the historic center.

Why Lucca Feels Like Home

We've been in constant motion for 46 days now, and Lucca is the first place that's made us want to slow down. There's something about the rhythm of life here - morning runs on the walls, afternoon gelato breaks, evening walks through the historic center - that feels sustainable in a way our previous pace didn't.

The girls have settled into routines here. They know which gelato shop they prefer, they can navigate from our apartment to their favorite playground, and they've started recognizing faces among the locals. Harper especially has been charming everyone with her limited Italian vocabulary and enormous smile.

For the first time since we left Indiana, it feels less like we're visiting a place and more like we're living somewhere. That's a crucial distinction when you're trying to make full-time travel work with a family.

Practical Information for Families

Getting Around Lucca:

Daily Budget for Family of Five (2022):

• Accommodation: €80-120/night for family apartment
• Food: €60-80/day (mix of restaurants and groceries)
• Activities: €20-40/day (tower admission, bike rental)
• Transportation: Minimal once in Lucca
• Total: Approximately €160-240/day

Frequently Asked Questions About Lucca

What is so special about Lucca, Italy?

Lucca is one of Italy's best-preserved medieval cities, completely surrounded by intact Renaissance walls that now serve as a elevated park. Unlike many Tuscan destinations, it maintains an authentic, lived-in feel while offering incredible history, walkable streets, and unique attractions like Torre Guinigi with trees growing on top.

Why is Lucca surrounded by a wall?

Lucca's walls were built in the 16th-17th centuries as Renaissance-era fortifications to protect the independent Republic of Lucca. Unlike most medieval walls that were torn down, Lucca's were preserved and converted into a public park in the 19th century, creating the unique 4.2-kilometer elevated walkway that circles the city today.

What is there to do in Lucca?

Key activities include walking or biking the city walls, climbing Torre Guinigi for panoramic views, exploring Piazza dell'Anfiteatro (built on a Roman amphitheater), visiting beautiful churches like San Frediano, and using Lucca as a base for day trips to Pisa, Florence, or the Tuscan countryside.

Where is Lucca located?

Lucca is in northwestern Tuscany, Italy, about 20 kilometers northeast of Pisa and 85 kilometers west of Florence. It's easily accessible by train from major Italian cities and serves as an excellent base for exploring Tuscany.

What language is spoken in Lucca?

Italian is the primary language, though many people in the tourism industry speak English. The locals are generally patient with visitors attempting basic Italian phrases.

What's Next

Tomorrow we leave for Naples - our final stop in Italy before heading to Munich and continuing our European adventure. I'm excited about what's coming, but also genuinely sad to leave Lucca.

This city has given us something we didn't even know we needed: permission to slow down and actually enjoy this incredible experience we've created for our family. It's reminded us that travel isn't about checking boxes or collecting passport stamps - it's about finding places and moments that make you feel more alive.

As I write this, the girls are playing quietly with their Italian sticker books while Lindsay reads on the couch. There's a gentle breeze coming through our open windows, and I can hear the sounds of Italian life drifting up from the piazza below. In a few hours, we'll head out for our anniversary dinner and probably take one more evening walk around the walls.

Tomorrow we'll pack our bags and move on to the next adventure. But part of us will always be here, in this perfect medieval city where Harper turned three, where we celebrated ten years of marriage, and where we learned that sometimes the best travel experiences come from simply being present in beautiful places with the people you love most.

Ciao for now, Lucca. Grazie for everything.

Follow our full-time family travel adventure on YouTube and Instagram. For custom family travel planning, contact Lindsay at [email protected].

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